About a year and a half ago, quite a few members of this forum made history when they participated in the first-ever plant tour of GM’s Shreveport, Louisiana facility by any forum, or any public group. It was a time of immense anticipation regarding the “then new” 2008 model year and pending V8 option release for the Colorado/Canyon truck line. It still is a high point for the employees of that GM plant and members of this forum as well. However, engineering delays and testing pushed back the production dates; and the enthusiasm for the powerplant option then took a back seat while other manufacturers were already releasing information of yet more powerful V8’s that were already in their product line-up.

Eighteen months later and now in a very different economic situation, the Colorado and Canyon pickups finally have their V8 option. With the trickling of these V8 models finally showing up on dealer showrooms and overcrowded lots, it seems only fitting that we acknowledge their arrival with something more than a casual glance at the window sticker.

I believe it is a bold move on GM’s part to finally make these trucks available to the general public. Are the performance advantages of these vehicles worth the wait? Do the performance advantages of the V8 justify the additional dollar figures? Yes and yes!

There’s never a better time to be more aggressive than when the “competition” is busy counting beans. This is actually a great time for General Motors to assume a more aggressive stance in their marketing and advertising campaigns than ever before. Has anyone seen a television ad depicting the new V8 line of intermediate trucks? I hope so!

With the news that GMAC has been re-united with its GM brethren, and that fact that GM is tackling some bold marketing and financing strategies, I think it’s the best time for would-be buyers and enthusiasts to venture out and see what the offers hold for consumers such as we.

Early indications of the performance advantages of the V8 over the existing four and five cylinder engine line-ups have much to say about the potential “fun factor” these trucks can provide. With some substantial tuning tweaks and aftermarket exhaust offerings, who has a clue what the venerable small-block can do for our Colorado or Canyon trucks!

The installation of a premium bolt-on cat-back exhaust system will be discussed below.

Disclaimer: “Please use caution and seek professional assistance when necessary. ColoradoFans.com, myself and all associated members are not responsible for any damages, injuries or other harm which may occur with this modification. This post does not reflect the views of ColoradoFans.com and it’s ownership.” Before attempting this modification, it is advised to verify your Colorado or Canyon service manual or a certified mechanic, as not all GMT 355’s are the same!

A CFans Members Mod Projects/How-To by tjm276

Skill Level: Moderate

A performance exhaust system can add great looks, an improved sound and performance gains to your truck. Installing a cat-back exhaust system is something that almost everyone can can do in their garage or driveway with common tools to enhance their truck. I ordered my MBRP “Cool Duals” kit from Tom at Street Beat Customs and I got a great price, great service and lightning fast shipping. I highly recommend contacting Tom (tom@streetbeatcustoms.com) for any accessories you have considered buying for your truck.

The first thing you need to do is inspect the kit and make sure all the correct pieces are present. You don’t want to cut the stock exhaust off your truck before you have a complete kit with which to replace it.

Once you are satisfied that all the pieces of your kit are in the box then you need to jack up the rear of the truck. If you have access to a hydraulic lift then that is obviously the preferred way to go. If not then you will need to use a jack and jack stands to lift the truck to give you enough space to work comfortably. Refer to your Owner’s Manual for instructions on jacking up your truck and proper jack points. If you are uncertain of how to do this safely or do not have the proper jacks/stands then you should have your kit installed by a qualified professional. DO NOT go under you truck if you are uncertain of the proper way to lift it and secure it safely.

Step 2:
The MBRP kit does not fit with the factory spare tire. You will need to remove it before you begin installation. Again, refer to your Owner’s manual for instructions on removing your spare tire.

If you don’t want to drop your rear axle out of the way you will need to cut the stock exhaust piping in order to remove it from the truck. The next three shots show the proper place to cut your stock exhaust. Cut the pipe in a place that is straight in front of the muffler. This will allow you to return your truck to its stock configuration at a later date is you so desire.

This is what you will see when the stock system is completely removed.

Now you can begin installing your new exhaust. No matter what kit you choose, you want to loosely install everything starting from the front and working your way back to the tip(s). Make sure you have at least 1/2 inch of clearance near any painted surfaces or body panels to avoid damage to them from the heat of your exhaust. Also, make sure your pipes have adequate clearance from any wiring, fuel lines, brake lines or whatever else your kit comes into close proximity to. The kit will heat up and vibrate so it is important that you have clearance around the pipes in all directions to avoid rattles and/or damage to the other systems in your truck.

Why is this beneficial? Well, normally aspirated engines have to work to draw in their intake air (this is where a Ram Air system can benefit normally-aspirated engines)! In other words, as the intake valves open, the piston’s downward movement creates a vacuum which ’sucks in’ some air through the intake system. Ideally, the piston’s movement would suck in 100% of the air that could fill the combustion chamber. In the real world this is not the case; the typical engine will draw in only about 80% of the total volume of the combustion chamber. There are many reasons for this: intake restrictions, valve timing, camshaft design, and much more.

Now imagine that the engine mentioned above has a turbocharger. When the turbo compresses the air it builds up pressure in the intake manifold. Now when the intake valves open, air is actually forced into the combustion chamber. (This is one reason why turbocharged engines are sometimes referred to as ‘forced-induction’ engines.) As you might imagine, this allows more air to fill the chamber.

The beauty of turbochargers is that they make use of wasted energy thrown away by the engine. Unlike superchargers that require a mechanical drive off the engine’s crankshaft (and thus rob power), a turbo is driven by the pulses and pressures of the exhaust gasses. This exhaust flow spins a turbine wheel that shares an axle shaft with an air compressor, so they turn in tandem at the same rate. Once their rotation comes up to a certain speed, pressure or boost builds up in the manifold. So instead of the engine having to suck in the air/fuel mixture by the vacuum draw of the pistons, this pressurized intake charge rushes into the cylinders and “overfills” them, producing more torque and horsepower.

Although the basic principles behind a turbo are fairly simple, the components themselves are complex, especially in the mechanical tolerances required to rotate parts in excess of 100,000 rpm. If the balance of the shaft and wheel assembly is not absolutely precise, they will self-destruct.

Not only that, a turbo has to be matched to a specific application. Getting a dragster off the line requires a completely different approach than getting a Winnebago to climb up a hill. Here the design of the compressor’s wheel and housing comes into play, because that determines the maximum flow (measured in pounds per minute) of air at a given amount of manifold pressure (boost). For example, as renowned engine builder Ken Duttweiler points out, “If you want to make 500 hp from a single turbo, you need a compressor that flows at least 50 lbs/min of air. You can figure this by dividing the maximum horsepower by 10 to get the airflow required.”

The turbine wheel spun by hot exhaust gases has a comparatively easier job. Even though the compressor is the most important thing to pick first, the wrong turbine wheel combination can ruin a good compressor match. The turbine wheel’s diameter and exducer (exit point) size are important for controlling speed and response time. For instance, a larger outlet will increase the amount of flow, but can slow turbo response. Also, the turbine must be lightweight, yet heat-resistant at the same time, so sometimes they’re made of exotic material such as inconel or Mar-M (a steel-nickel alloy developed in the aerospace industry), particularly where long-term, hard use is expected. Otherwise, a steel alloy called GMR is more commonly used.
Due to the high temperatures and rotation speeds, oil lubrication is the lifeblood of a turbo system. The only thing supporting the shaft and wheel assembly is a micro-thin film of oil, usually supplied by the engine. Note, however, that oil can break down or cook from high temperatures and cause what is known as coking, leaving deposits on precisely machined components. To prevent this from happening, before shutdown, a turbocharged engine should be run at a low engine speed to reduce heat and shaft speed. This procedure will also prevent a loss of oil pressure to the wheel and shaft assembly, which may still continue to spin after shut down and require lubrication. Some companies offer a turbo timer that maintains oil pressure for a set period of time after the engine shuts off.

Due to the critical importance of oil lubrication, the turbo housing must be positioned with the oil inlet on top and the oil return facing down. Make sure the oil return line is as large as possible to reduce to possibility of flow restriction.

When starting up an engine with a new turbo, allow it to reach operating temperature before running hard. Never rev a turbo engine right after startup, because there is insufficient oil pressure and film on the bearings. Not following this procedure can knock out a set of bearings and gall up the shaft.

Engine choices in the past were limited to the Vortec 2900 2.9-liter inline-four cylinder rated at 185-hp / 190 lb-ft or the Vortec 3700 3.7-liter 242-hp / 242 lb-ft inline-five cylinder.  2009 is the first model year to offer a V8 option which many of enthusiasts have been awaiting.  The V8 will hopefully gain the respect which S-10 owners have criticized their predecessor with.

As for the market, truck sales have lagged with increased gas prices and now an overall economy downturn.  With oil prices falling to their lowest level since March 2007, hopefully the strength of the Colorado V8 will power its way through these tough times.

• Debadged
• 20×9 Incubus “The Game” wheels
• 2/3 McGaughys Lowering Kit
• Painted Interior Trim
• SS Gen II Front bumper Cover
• SS Roll pan w/ Hidden hitch
• Reverse camera mounted on license plate
• Flip up license plate
• Xenon side skirts
• Flowmaster 50 Series exhaust
• K&N FIPKII Cold Air Intake
• Poweraid Throttle body spacer
• Shaved handles with autoloc door popper kit
• Custom paint, black & red separated by silver tribal with orange pinstriping (hand striped)
• Cervini Fiberglass hood
• Optima yellow top with stinger wires for sound system and billet bracket
• Denso Iridium Plugs and denso boot connectors
• CUSTOM spray in bed liner, matches the exterior paint
• Custom center console houses 4 memphis 8″ m class subs
• memphis composite door speakers up front and in the back
• 150 w memphis audio amp for front doors
• 150 w memphis audio amp for rear doors
• 300 x 4 memphis audio amp for the 4 subs
• 7″ dvd screen mounted in rear of center console box for back seat
• pioner p4000dvd head unit
• Street scene front grill and valance inserts
• Angel Eye headlights
• Painted Tail lights and 3rd brake light

Future Mods:

• Either Supercharger or turbo kit, havent decided yet….
• Re-upholstered
• new wheels and tires
• drop it a little more
• revamp the suspension all around
• tons of stuff….. next step, get it in truckin