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Rear Shock and/or Lift Block DIY w/pics

27K views 35 replies 19 participants last post by  Othello 
#1 ·
Finally got around to putting in the rear Eibach sport shocks I had as well as lift blocks for the rear. Killed two birds and figured I would write it up for anyone who is interested.

It's a fairly easy job. Took me an hour total for both sides, you could certainly do it in less.

What you'll need:
23mm socket for lug nuts
21mm socket for all the bolts
Wrench to fit said sockets
21mm wrench or another socket
Jack
Jack stands or lift or something
Gloves, or not, your choice
Saftey glasses
Parts

So I had ordered the Eibach shocks all together in Dec on sale and rebate. The front have been excellent so was looking forward to the rear matching. So far they ride very nice, better than stock imo.
For the blocks and u-bolts, I took advice from @ssgjurista and ordered GM parts that are commonly sold as take-offs from FS. Part numbers: 15885530 and 11569811
Which I have an extra set of the blocks if anyone wants to buy (pm me)


*note* This only the way I did everything. I am by no means a certified mechanic or authority. Wrench at your own risk and what you're comfortable with. I take no responsibility in your actions.







Step 1: Chock the front wheels and jack up the rear, rest the frame high enough on some jack stands or if you have a lift, even better.



Step 2: Use a jack under the diff to position axle as needed. To start, raise the jack so it's just barely carrying load. (should use a piece of wood or something instead of jacking directly on the diff)



Step 3: Remove the lower bolt on the shock. 21mm nut and bolt.



Step 4: Repeat on other side

Step 5: Remove u-bolt nuts on one side and loosen on other. 21mm nuts




Step 6: Take off axle seat (not sure what you call it) and lower jack slowly to lower the axle enough to slip the block under the springs. May need to jostle a little to free things up



Step 7: Replace u-bolts with longer set and put axle seat back on and tighten nuts, not fully yet

Step 8: Repeat for other side

Step 9: Remove top bolt for shocks. 21mm bolt



Step 10: Swap shocks and tighten the top bolts

Step 11: Use the jack to move the axle as needed to align the bottom bolts and tighten back up



Step 12: Torque everything back up!



Step 13: Put the wheels back on, lower the truck slowly and torque the lugs

Step 14: Clean up and enjoy your new ride!


Here are some extra pics. Definitely nice to have a nice warm garage with a lift and air tools...





 
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#5 ·
Thank you.
Got them to help sight scopes on a break barrel air rifle and an old .22
Shot a .45 the other day at one, didn't last very long haha

Always helps to have a warm dry garage and air tools.

Did you do the final torque with the impact or a torque wrench and torque angle gauge?

BTW: those lift blocks look familiar. LOL
Oh definitely, specially in New England. It's my parents house, they down sized a couple years back and my dad wanted a dream garage. I'm very appreciative to use it, only live about an hour away. Help him whenever he needs to do any work on our family's cars.

I torqued with a torque wrench. 120ft-lbs on the u-bolts was a pain in the butt


Good writeup!

This might be answered already, but since they are GM OEM parts, are the blocks you used for your extra lift intended for a Z71?
You should be able to use them on any of the twins I would assume.
I couldn't tell you exactly which model FS the come off but they fit very nice on the Colorado. I have to give credit to @ssgjurista for giving the part numbers.
 
#3 ·
Always helps to have a warm dry garage and air tools.

Did you do the final torque with the impact or a torque wrench and torque angle gauge?

BTW: those lift blocks look familiar. LOL
 
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#7 ·
Thanks for the kind words! The lift blocks are used on the 1500 Silverado/Sierra. Based on measurements (and being the guinea pig), I correctly guessed they would work on the Twins.
 
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#9 ·
What is the main reason / benefit for switching to the Eibach shocks? I can't imagine your OE shocks already wore out.

Nice write up!


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#10 ·
I got them together with the front on sale and with a rebate. Wanted a little nicer ride which they seem to offer.
 
#13 ·
Bumping this up because I too have this stupid question (which makes it NOT stupid if two of us have it:))...I just ordered my Eibach's and want these in route as well but don't want to end up with 4 blocks. Thanks!
 
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#18 · (Edited)
By looking at the pictures of your rear leaf springs, I have come to the conclusion that they have put awful weak leaf springs on these trucks. The springs have no arch, maybe a negative arch when the truck Weight is on them. That is poor design by GM. They should be ashamed of themselves. If they would have put a decent set of springs on, you would not need the lift blocks. Have you been carrying a lot of weight or towing?
 
#20 ·
Or is it a good design because it provides decent payload (1,560lbs) and a decent ride? Personally I don't like the way 3/4 ton trucks or add-a-leaf trucks ride.
 
#24 ·
Try GM Parts Direct or any other GM supplies that pop up on the google search with the part #.
 
#27 ·
Lift blocks? No.

Only the ZR2 model has factory installed lift blocks.
 
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#30 ·
Huge thanks to @kaiser67 for posting the pics with the how-to. Definitely removes my apprehension, since I'll be doing this for the first time. A couple comments for other readers contemplating this project:

- On my 2016 Z71 diesel, the lug nuts are 22mm (OP stated 23mm for his 2016 LT). Just pointing this out for those making a tool shopping list (as I am today). I think I'll buy a couple impact deep sockets, and borrow an Li-Ion impact wrench from the local tool library.

- I did a Fox remote reservoir level/lift on the front, +2.5", which results in the vehicle's nose pointing upwards (which I can also feel as pressure from the driver's seat). Unanticipated consequence is that if the rear is left factory stock, the tilt-back of the vehicle results in the spare tire tilting *lower* to the ground, thus reducing departure angle. For this reason, I'll be buying an Icon +1" block and hardware for the rear (doesn't cost much more than GM parts, and eliminates question of how many quantity to buy). A +1 block (or more) won't improve the clearance under the rear diff or the shocks, but it will raise the gas tank and most importantly the rear tire for that departure angle. I'm kinda considering going +2" on the rear...

- Back to the tool list, this is probably obvious, but the rear shocks will need two 21mm wrenches. I'm planning on one fixed/combo wrench, and one ratcheting box wrench. The clearances look really tight up on top of the rear shocks. Again, obvious, but since I own zero automotive tools (or know-how), it's worth pointing out for others wrenching for the first time.

- I'm wondering if 1-2 tire sizes larger (mostly diameter, but perhaps also width) will still fit under the bed in the traditional spare tire location? Looks like the heat shield for the (diesel) exhaust might need to be slotted/repositioned. Not sure if there are other complications...?
 
#31 ·
The most important aspect of this install of which I've done 3 now is to only do one side at a time. If you try and unbolt both sides at the same time the entire axle will drop and move around and can negatively impact driveshaft angle not to mention it's a pain to get everything lined up again.
 
#32 · (Edited)
^^^I just learned this the hard way. I tried installing a 1" lift block (IVD iron block with larger diameter U-bolt) under my driver-side leaf spring. That alone was a bear because the axle shifted forwards and hindered fore/aft alignment of the dimple on the leaf and block. Gravity seemed to be pulling the axle forward. Since I couldn't align the lift block dimple on the driver's side, I went ahead and also loosened up the passenger side leaf (u-bolt) - at which point the entire pumpkin and drive shaft rotated forwards/downwards. Although it was a huge pain iterating adjustments between sides, and using/not using another jack under the pumpkin/shaft for angulation, I eventually got the entire rear end to loosen up and cooperate and got both lift blocks' dimples aligned with the leafs. Sheesh. Hopefully there's no risk in misalignment of the rear end after this procedure(?). EDIT >>> A subsequent wheel alignment resulted in small adjustments, and piece of mind.

EDITED >>> Although I tightened up the U-bolts around the blocks "guten tight", as they say, I found the nuts loosening after just a few miles of driving. IVD doesn't list a tightening torque, and the u-bolts are too long to accommodate a deep socket on a torque wrench (I just used a large crescent wrench instead). I had read some bravado talk on another thread about not needing threadlock as long as the tightening torque is adequate - but I won't take that chance again. I reseated those nuts using Permatex red (similar to Loctite high strength) - it'll take a torch to ever loosen them. I just ordered a 50ml tube of Permatex blue (medium strength, like 242), and will be using it on any other fasteners associated with lifts, suspension, skid plates. LESSON LEARNED! As an aside, I'm pretty sure the factory nuts had a deformed thread which acted as a mechanical thread lock. Whereas aftermarket nuts like those supplied by IVD don't...
 
#36 ·
Finally got around to putting in the rear Eibach sport shocks I had as well as lift blocks for the rear. Killed two birds and figured I would write it up for anyone who is interested.

It's a fairly easy job. Took me an hour total for both sides, you could certainly do it in less.

What you'll need:
23mm socket for lug nuts
21mm socket for all the bolts
Wrench to fit said sockets
21mm wrench or another socket
Jack
Jack stands or lift or something
Gloves, or not, your choice
Saftey glasses
Parts

So I had ordered the Eibach shocks all together in Dec on sale and rebate. The front have been excellent so was looking forward to the rear matching. So far they ride very nice, better than stock imo.
For the blocks and u-bolts, I took advice from @ssgjurista and ordered GM parts that are commonly sold as take-offs from FS. Part numbers: 15885530 and 11569811
Which I have an extra set of the blocks if anyone wants to buy (pm me)


note This only the way I did everything. I am by no means a certified mechanic or authority. Wrench at your own risk and what you're comfortable with. I take no responsibility in your actions.







Step 1: Chock the front wheels and jack up the rear, rest the frame high enough on some jack stands or if you have a lift, even better.



Step 2: Use a jack under the diff to position axle as needed. To start, raise the jack so it's just barely carrying load. (should use a piece of wood or something instead of jacking directly on the diff)



Step 3: Remove the lower bolt on the shock. 21mm nut and bolt.



Step 4: Repeat on other side

Step 5: Remove u-bolt nuts on one side and loosen on other. 21mm nuts




Step 6: Take off axle seat (not sure what you call it) and lower jack slowly to lower the axle enough to slip the block under the springs. May need to jostle a little to free things up



Step 7: Replace u-bolts with longer set and put axle seat back on and tighten nuts, not fully yet

Step 8: Repeat for other side

Step 9: Remove top bolt for shocks. 21mm bolt



Step 10: Swap shocks and tighten the top bolts

Step 11: Use the jack to move the axle as needed to align the bottom bolts and tighten back up



Step 12: Torque everything back up!



Step 13: Put the wheels back on, lower the truck slowly and torque the lugs

Step 14: Clean up and enjoy your new ride!


Here are some extra pics. Definitely nice to have a nice warm garage with a lift and air tools...





Did the tabs on the rear shock lower mounts start to bend in while torquing to 118ft-lbs? I just installed mine and got to around 80 and they just kept bending in. I didn’t feel comfortable going any further.
 
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